Help! Amp troubles!

My 2x12 amp appears to have only one cone working.
the stuffed cone dosent appear to have any tears in it and is just heaps quieter. It also dosen't vibrate nearly as much as the good one. Has anyone had this problem before? Is it blown?

I tried to compare the cones individually by unplugging the other but the 'test cone' didn't work without the other plugged in.

That raises another question... If i shelled out and bought a new one, say a slightly higher wattage cone than the faulty one, and kept the good cone, would the amp still work?

If anyone could shed some light on the subject for me that would be really fantastic. I have no idea about this kinda stuff

thanks heaps.

Forums: The Bar,

Hey ya-

If you able to, try removing the defective speaker and move the cone gently in and out- listen for any clicks or grinding sounds, because a healthy speaker would be silent. This could mean lots of different things, but generally that the speaker should be serviced or replaced.

RE getting a louder louder replacement speaker- Remember your maximum headroom is only as good as the weakest speaker. So if you loaded 1 x 30 watt and 1 x 75 watt, you'd have a 30 watt ceiling, not a 105 watt ceiling.

Picking a replacement speaker should be fun though- they have such a massive impact on your sound, and having two different sounding speakers in the same combo can produce some really nice guitar tones. If you don't mind me asking, what sort of amp do you have?

Cheers Foetusboy!

I took it out and somethings definitely wrong with the cones internal organs... theres a faint but definite 'pop' sound when I push the outer cone up and down.

I've got a Fender Stage 160. It's a 160w solid state amp, some people (and Fender themselves) liked to call it "the solid state version of the twin". its alot drier in tone than a twin of course, but since my 'tone' is little more than a dry trebly sound anyway it really dosen't matter. I like it alot. Fender have ceased production of it and replaced it with a shitty digital modelling amp with similar specs but cheaper parts...

Thanks for the explanation of the wattage floor. I'm keeping the still functioning old cone and picking up a 2nd hand EVH 12" which apparently runs up to 200w. The amp should be deafening when that goes in... 100w seems like a decent noise floor.

You might not find it a lot louder. There was an excellent geeky discussion on such things a while ago (follow the link below). You might find some of the info quite interesting:

"All the debate about output power is a bit of a red herring as well ... people assume, quite logically, that a 100 W amp is twice as loud as a 50 W amp ... this is not the case. The generally accepted rule of thumb is that for an amp to be twice as loud it needs 10 times the output power. So a 100 W amp is twice as loud as a 10 W amp. It is all a bit of a fudge, but there is little point paying big bucks for an extra 50W that you can barely notice (100 W is 3 dB more than 50 W; a 3 dB increase in power is generally accepted as the minimum change of level that can be detected by the human air." (Big Stu)

external link ]

that makes sense Limegreen. I seem to remember that concept being explained to me in the distant past by someone.... though I'd stupidly forgotten it. by all accounts EVM cones are known for their efficencey (volume) and are pretty much bulletproof. I like the idea of 200w because theoretically it wont blow in a hell of a hurry.... touch wood.

Am I right in saying that replacing the cone and having both operating would give me nearly twice the volume anyway?

regardless of the outcome, I'll be happy to have the thing operating at full tilt again. I use it all the time which cant be good for the remaining cone...

It probably depends on how the cones are wired. The fact that one goes without the other clearly indicates they're not running in series. So assuming there is not a separate amplifier for each cone (like it's not a 2 channel amp running a separate channel for each cone) I guess it's probably in parallel, so you'll be running more juice through the other cone.
Thinking a little harder about this, you should make sure that the impedance (the "resistance but not actual resistance" of a speaker) of the two cones match. If the impedance of the new speaker is higher than the other one (it'll be like 4,6,8,12,16 ohms etc.), and they are in parallel, you'll be running more juice through the old speaker which is not so good.

Although don't take my word for it. I'm just a generic geek. I have no experience with guitar amplification. there are plenty of others on this site who have the real skills.

Yeah, that's important-

The impedance of the replacement should be identical to the original- most 12" guitar speakers are made with either 8 ohm or 16 ohm impedance, and they should say so on a label they've stuck to the magnet, or sometimes it's stamped onto the edge of the frame.

And the 'output rating' of a speaker is not the same thing as the 'efficiency'- eg the celestion G12 is rated at 15 watts output rating, but has 100db efficiency. As rusty says, EVMs have a reputation for being very efficient, but I don't know if it would be realisitic to expect twice the output- it should sound louder, but not that loud!

I'm interested in how the replacement speaker has worked out- are you happy with the results?

Its definitely wired in series Limegreen, its just when I disrupt the series - either from slave to master or master to slave, neither of the cones work... thats a pretty vague explanation I know... hopefully you get what i mean.

The new cone gets delivered Wednesday Foetusboy, so until then Im in the dark... but I'll definitely keep you informed.

//So if you loaded 1 x 30 watt and 1 x 75 watt, you'd have a 30 watt ceiling, not a 105 watt ceiling.

Sorry- made a mistake there. In this example it would be a 60 watt ceiling- multiply the headroom of the weakest speaker by the number of speakers: 30 watts x 2 = 60 watts. Easy, yet I still mucked it up...